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We had the opportunity to travel once again to Kyoto, this time with Nancy and Dave. We decided to take off to the east side of the city and take in the “Silver Pavilion” as well as a stroll down the “Philosopher’s Walk”
First, the Ginkaku-ji temple is misnamed. It translates to the ‘silver pavilion’ but it has never been silver. The story goes that it was supposed to be silver someday but it never seemed to happen. The shogun who built it really wanted it to be his retirement villa. The lower floor is very small and was supposed to be the “living” quarters. Apparently the 2nd floor actually had a Buddhist image and was eventually changed into a temple. The temple itself is quite small and modest but the garden is spectacular. Once you are past the pavilion, you enter the garden itself.
The garden is actually divided into two parts, though it doesn’t really start out with a garden like we usually imagine. It is a “karaesanisui” garden or a ‘dry’ garden. First you get a view of a cone shaped structure that rises about 2 meters. It is called a “kogetsudai” or ‘moon-viewing platform’. It is supposed to resemble Mount Fuji but it really requires a bit of imagination. After Mt. Fuji, you come to a ‘garden’ that is actually a 2-foot high platform that is sculpted to be a “sea”. Once again, imagination is required. It’s a sand structure with alternating “waves” and flat sections. The labor required to maintain the structure must be spectacular. It really is pleasing to look at and easy to get lost in. Though it’s amazing at any time of the day, it is said the best view of the garden is at night with a full moon shining on the sand, making it truly resemble a calm, peaceful, silver sea. Unfortunately, I had to copy that from the brochure information because alas, we were there during the day and I’ll have to take their word for it.
After this you walk through a more traditional garden, complete with fabulous, manicured trails, perfect trees and groomed moss (yes, I know…it’s the stuff we in the Pacific NW usually wage war against. I’ve come to have a new appreciation of it). The number of varieties and their infinite colors is really pretty spectacular. There are a number of beautiful pools and waterfalls as you wind your way through the grounds. It would be quite easy to sit for a long time to enjoy it.
The Philosopher’s Walk was delightful. There is a small canal complete with trees and gardens and, of course, the tiny shops. We strolled down the path, taking in the old structures, meandering through the stores and checking out the street food. It was way too cold to have many of them open but we took advantage of the ones that were.
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