Monday, June 04, 2007

Takayama


The kanji for Takayama means “tall mountain”, which is crazy because it’s not all that tall for mountains here (only 1420 m compared to Fuji’s 3800 m). Nevertheless, it is a cool mountain “village” with many hikes and some beautiful scenery.

One of the things that draws a lot of tourists is the fabulously preserved “old town”. They have entire streets that have been gorgeously preserved with buildings, shops and homes dating from the Edo Period (like around 1600-1868 - we have NO history in comparison). The buildings are wonderful to view and, of course, most are filled with handicrafts and other goods for the happy travelers to purchase. Rain or sun, this place can be packed. Last time we were here it POURED. This time we had fabulous weather!

Takayama Old Town


I think it’s time I described what an “old building” might look like. There were lots of examples here. These buildings are all wood construction and so close together they actually share the wall with the building next-door. You can tell the shop is open because they hang one of the fabric banners across it – if it’s not hanging outside, the shop is probably closed (of course an open door is also a good sign). (The banner is really common for restaurants even now). The door-way is almost always a shoji screen – the traditional Japanese sliding door with the small squares and rice paper on it. You come into what was once the genkan – the entrance-way where you would have removed your shoes before entering. Some places still have you remove your shoes. The genkan is generally some kind of decorative rock or stone, though it might have been wood or packed dirt at one time. There is generally a 2nd door into the actual shop itself.
The inside of the building is generally very dark wood. The original homes or shops would have had a fire pit inside, with the resulting smoke staining everything dark. Of course it also served the purpose of keeping the bugs out of stuff, thus preserving the wood, though I’m sure the lungs didn’t care for it too much. Generally, you can look up and see the rafters above, though some do have ceilings. Windows and internal doors in the buildings were also covered with the shoji screens. Some buildings include a small, internal garden, complete with the shoji around them. They would have been a place to relax and bring “nature” into the house. Some are quite wonderful to see.
Outside the buildings, some creative signage was included. Our favorite was a rather large ball of pine needles hanging outside that meant it was a brewery – generally sake. What the connection was is beyond me. Some had small shrines nestled just above the door – though it would have been quite a climb to have gotten it up there.
Since we’re already part way up to the roof, I might as well go there next. Most of these shops have ceramic tile roofs. Shingles were commonly used prior to the tile. In extreme cold, the tiles would crack, but the addition of zinc (I believe it was) solved the problem. Obviously, tile was a big improvement over the fire difficulties with wooden shingles. Fire was a constant threat to these old homes.

Sakurayama Hachimangu Gate


The gate to the entrance of the Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine is a very unusual color. Most of these gates are a Bright Red color – and I do mean Bright. They’re typically lacquered and stand out. This one is quite unusual with the muted sand color. The shrine is actually down a long street and up the hill from the gate sitting on the river.

Hida no Sato


Hida no Sato is a “traditional house reservation”, located a bit south of Takayama itself. It is a village that has been constructed from various old (and I do mean old) homes in Japan. Some of the homes were built in the 1700’s and the floors were packed dirt. Most were constructed without any nails at all and they all had hand made shingles on the roofs. In fact, they still do. While fire is the bane of all wood homes, it also was a source of preservation for these old homes, keeping bugs and rot from ruining the roof. Some of the straw gassho style houses have roofs that last 60 years!!!
Suppose I should remind you what the gassho style house is. It is the same as the ones in Shirakawa (Nov. 04). They are made from thatch that is hand tied onto huge frames. In the very high attics, people often dried things or raised silkworms. The area was very poor and most farmers worked hard to make ends meet. Silkworms was a source of income though, according to the notes, no one remembers the task of caring for them fondly.