Driving in Japan is definitely an experience. For a start, they have some of the world’s narrowest roads. Things that we would look at and consider to be a bike path, they actually drive on on a regular basis. Some, but not all, are one way roads. The road we regularly use to go to work is one such road – very busy, frequently in use, and you spend most of the time creeping up the side of the road or pulling into the small driveways and such on the side of the road, or not, in which case it's sorta like a game of legalized chicken in which you hope the other guy pull off to the side before your front bumpers meet. Another road we use on the way to our taiko class is horrible. Take a very narrow road, add lots of turns (fortunately with those wonderful mirrors) but add the ditch on the side of the road (the ones that are very deep and wide enough for a car tire to go into it). It’s a very popular road because it cuts off close to 20 minutes to get to the main highway…need I say more? To get to the dentist I go to, you have to cross a rice paddy on a very narrow road on the dike between fields. It's so narrow I wasn’t even certain it was wide enough for the car!
The attitude towards stop lights is also different. OK…picture this. The light turns yellow….we generally think of stopping because it’s going to be turning red. Uh uh…wrong. It’s turning yellow so you gun it to make sure you get to turn on that light cycle. Now…it has turned red…well….it’s still ok to go for the next 4 seconds because that’s how long everyone has a red light. It was designed to make sure everyone was able to get out of the middle of the intersection but they use it as a great excuse to not have to stop. Now…the cars that are stopped going the other direction are now creeping forward because, after all, the light is going to turn green in 4 seconds so they want to have a jump on the light. Once again, need I say more? Now…add the motorcycles and scooters to this mix. These guys can go anywhere, weave between cars, come up to the front of the line, pass you on any side at any time. They like to come up to the front of the line and the creep out – they’re halfway into the intersection before the light has turned green! Scooters also regularly drive wherever they want to…sidewalks, across fields, weaving among the bikes and walkers….it’s a crazy mix!
Oh yeah…and if you want to just run into a place (cleaners, grocers, flower shop, whatever), just stop the car. It’s fine, really. The guy behind will probably honk the horn but he’ll get over it and you can run in without worrying about finding a parking place. Trucks, busses, cars….everyone just stops when and where they want to. I’m sure it’s not legal, it’s just done. Another dimension to the mystery of driving here.
Sunday, January 30, 2005
Sunday, January 16, 2005
The Wonders of Japan
I’ve said lots about places we’ve gone, but little about some of the small things that just happen here in daily life. Here’s another look at Japan…
I’m always amazed at the service you receive here. Let’s just go to the gas station. They begin by directing you in. While the tank is filling, they wash your windows (yes, all of them) and they even will dump your ashtray! When you leave, they stop cars to help get you back in traffic! Talk about being directed…all of the major shopping malls and many of the not so major stores have parking lot attendants who help you in and out of the traffic on the street!
We have noticed a difference in the care of city trees, on the streets or in the parks. In the States, chain saws come out and trees are quickly dealt with. Here, we have watched men climb the trees and prune the trees, with hand clippers, so that they will maintain the beautiful, characteristic, cultivated shape. In most parks around the various castles and shrines, the grounds are raked and swept (even the gravel) to eliminate the leaves that have fallen to the ground. Moss is valued for its beauty (boy has my attitude changed on moss) and it is found in numerous gardens. Here the grass is weeded out of the moss.
Now, checkout the post office. Just imagine…you have a package that arrived and the post office left the note at the house on a Friday. You figure Monday you’ll go pick it up. Well…here, Sunday night, around 8:00 the doorbell rang. I walked out to the gate to discover the Japanese Postal worker there WITH our box to be delivered!!!! Yes, I did say it was a Sunday.
In the stores, particularly the gift stores, the sales people take exquisite care of your purchases. All of them are wrapped as if for a gift, no matter what you say (or not as the case may be). Even a regular store takes pain to package your purchases carefully.
While we’re on the subject of shopping…the grocery stores here do not have the huge carts we do. Picture the little hand baskets we have. Now, picture a little cart just the right size for a hand basket to fit on. That’s the carts they use here. When you make your purchases, you put the basket on the counter and they ring you up straight from your basket to another one (no issues of worker injuries here). If you have glass items they will add a protective wrap, free of charge. Even the 100 yen store (dollar store) has cut up newspapers available for wrapping your glassware! When you pay, you carry your basket over to a table and pack it there. By the way…don’t lick your fingers to open those plastic bags – bad form here. They have damp cloths that you touch to open the bags.
Remember all of those larger sized handkerchiefs we have received over the years? We have now discovered how wonderfully useful they are! First, you can use them as a lunch box. You wrap them around the containers you’re bringing, tie it up, slide in your chopsticks and you’re ready to go. You also keep one in a pocket or your purse. When there are no towels in the toilets, you use the one you’re carrying. (Just like in Ecuador, you carry Kleenex with you always – and, wonders of wonders, they pass the little packages out with advertising stuff on the street corners so you never have to run out! Finally, you can even use them as handkerchiefs, however, here you sniff in public and escape to a toilet to blow your nose.
The service continues everywhere. We have an Italian restaurant we like and the man comes out to bow at the door when we leave. At the museums, they will search for us in the museum to bring us an English guide if they didn’t give it to us immediately. Train attendants watch for people racing for the trains and will help with strollers and such to get everyone one in. It’s truly a different world!
I’m always amazed at the service you receive here. Let’s just go to the gas station. They begin by directing you in. While the tank is filling, they wash your windows (yes, all of them) and they even will dump your ashtray! When you leave, they stop cars to help get you back in traffic! Talk about being directed…all of the major shopping malls and many of the not so major stores have parking lot attendants who help you in and out of the traffic on the street!
We have noticed a difference in the care of city trees, on the streets or in the parks. In the States, chain saws come out and trees are quickly dealt with. Here, we have watched men climb the trees and prune the trees, with hand clippers, so that they will maintain the beautiful, characteristic, cultivated shape. In most parks around the various castles and shrines, the grounds are raked and swept (even the gravel) to eliminate the leaves that have fallen to the ground. Moss is valued for its beauty (boy has my attitude changed on moss) and it is found in numerous gardens. Here the grass is weeded out of the moss.
Now, checkout the post office. Just imagine…you have a package that arrived and the post office left the note at the house on a Friday. You figure Monday you’ll go pick it up. Well…here, Sunday night, around 8:00 the doorbell rang. I walked out to the gate to discover the Japanese Postal worker there WITH our box to be delivered!!!! Yes, I did say it was a Sunday.
In the stores, particularly the gift stores, the sales people take exquisite care of your purchases. All of them are wrapped as if for a gift, no matter what you say (or not as the case may be). Even a regular store takes pain to package your purchases carefully.
While we’re on the subject of shopping…the grocery stores here do not have the huge carts we do. Picture the little hand baskets we have. Now, picture a little cart just the right size for a hand basket to fit on. That’s the carts they use here. When you make your purchases, you put the basket on the counter and they ring you up straight from your basket to another one (no issues of worker injuries here). If you have glass items they will add a protective wrap, free of charge. Even the 100 yen store (dollar store) has cut up newspapers available for wrapping your glassware! When you pay, you carry your basket over to a table and pack it there. By the way…don’t lick your fingers to open those plastic bags – bad form here. They have damp cloths that you touch to open the bags.
Remember all of those larger sized handkerchiefs we have received over the years? We have now discovered how wonderfully useful they are! First, you can use them as a lunch box. You wrap them around the containers you’re bringing, tie it up, slide in your chopsticks and you’re ready to go. You also keep one in a pocket or your purse. When there are no towels in the toilets, you use the one you’re carrying. (Just like in Ecuador, you carry Kleenex with you always – and, wonders of wonders, they pass the little packages out with advertising stuff on the street corners so you never have to run out! Finally, you can even use them as handkerchiefs, however, here you sniff in public and escape to a toilet to blow your nose.
The service continues everywhere. We have an Italian restaurant we like and the man comes out to bow at the door when we leave. At the museums, they will search for us in the museum to bring us an English guide if they didn’t give it to us immediately. Train attendants watch for people racing for the trains and will help with strollers and such to get everyone one in. It’s truly a different world!
Saturday, January 01, 2005
Nara
Over the years, the capital of Japan has migrated to various cities. At one time, Nara was the capital of Japan and thus the home of the Emperor. It is also, surprise, surprise, the home of many shrines and temples. The most famous temple of all, the Todaiji temple, is located in the heart of Nara park. It is the largest wooden structure in the world and home of the largest wooden Buddhist statue. The statue is immense and stately, sitting 15 m high, on a carved, wooden lotus flower. The carvings on the flower told the story of the Buddha, the structure of heaven and earth as well as information about Japan. The large Buddha was surrounded by smaller gilded statues, creating a halo effect around the statue. Massive is the only thing to call it.
Groups of deer, considered to be messengers of the gods, run freely around the park area. They are quite tame and will pose for you to take pictures of them, however, just think about buying some of the treats to feed them and everything changes. The placid, sleeping deer suddenly become energized, racing over to you as you frantically attempt to tear off the paper to offer them a deer cookie. They steal from each other, nip you, knock the cookies out of your hand, and eat everything, including the paper. It lasts for approximately 20 seconds and then they instantly seem to know you are out of food for them and they return once again to the mellow, placid creatures you had originally seen.
We had the chance to visit a few more shrines, most notably the large, Karusa Taisha shrine, located on the edge of the primeval forest. Unfortunately, Japan takes celebrating the New Year quite seriously and many things were closed the week leading up to the New Years. We have decided that a 2nd trip to Nara, probably in the spring to enjoy the wisteria blooms it is famous for.
Groups of deer, considered to be messengers of the gods, run freely around the park area. They are quite tame and will pose for you to take pictures of them, however, just think about buying some of the treats to feed them and everything changes. The placid, sleeping deer suddenly become energized, racing over to you as you frantically attempt to tear off the paper to offer them a deer cookie. They steal from each other, nip you, knock the cookies out of your hand, and eat everything, including the paper. It lasts for approximately 20 seconds and then they instantly seem to know you are out of food for them and they return once again to the mellow, placid creatures you had originally seen.
We had the chance to visit a few more shrines, most notably the large, Karusa Taisha shrine, located on the edge of the primeval forest. Unfortunately, Japan takes celebrating the New Year quite seriously and many things were closed the week leading up to the New Years. We have decided that a 2nd trip to Nara, probably in the spring to enjoy the wisteria blooms it is famous for.
Hiroshima - Miyajima
Hiroshima is a city with a single focus…the elimination of nuclear weapons and world peace. They have dedicated everything they do to achieve that end. The monuments to honor the dead always contain the peace message along with it. The mayor writes a letter to every country who tests an atomic weapon, hoping each one will be the last one that is ever written.
The A-Bomb Dome is a grim reminder of the destructive power of the bomb. Peace Park is the home of the many monuments and tributes to the thousands of people who lost their lives. The museum is a terrible reminder of the horrible destruction. There really aren’t words to describe it.
After a somber day in Hiroshima, we took off to the island of Miya jima, and island held in awe for its fabled beauty as well as its famous Tori gate and Itsukushima Shrine. This incredible shrine is built right out upon the water with the foundation posts submerged in the sea. Unfortunately, this means that the posts decay easily and the shrine is battered by the ocean as well as typhoons, requiring constant and comprehensive maintenance. Even the beach and sandbar that emerges at low tide is kept clean and free from even the accumulation of algae.
The shrine has numerous buildings, connected with long, covered walkways. There are also several “stage” areas around, some covered, some out in the open. When we arrived, the monks were busy rolling out a red carpet and setting up one of the outdoor stage areas with another red carpet. We hung out on the fringes and watched, figuring something was about to happen (and no one was telling us to leave, in fact, they set up seats for people and we all sat).
Eventually, a number of priests came out and sat in a cloth draped shelter. Next, some men in elaborate silk robes appeared. Some wore masks, some carried various weapons, and all were dressed in elaborate, embroidered silk robes. The first dance was performed by a single man who wore an elaborate headpiece and carried a ceremonial sword. He very formally moved up to the stage and mounted it, then performed the stylized dance, moving through defensive postures. It was accompanied by music performed by some of the priests in the shelter, using various flute type instruments and a small taiko drum. More dances followed with groups and masks varying by dances. Afterwards we found out that we had had the honor of seeing Bugaku dancing, a performance that is only held nine times a year, generally for religious ceremonies or court occasions.
Afterwards, we decided to hike to the top of Mount Misen. We were armed with a nice, picture map of the area and it looked like it would be a pleasant hike, going past numerous temples, shrines and pagodas, and ending up at the small hut to be located at the top. It was a grueling, 5 km hike up STAIRS to the top. We did pass one beautiful Daishoin Temple grounds that was a great place to take a break but after that we were on our own. We almost gave up (it was starting to rain) but we persevered and were rewarded with a great view of the island and ocean.
We headed down, through some more temples, heading for the ‘monkey house’ and the ropeway. The monkey house turns out to be an open area with many monkeys cavorting around. One of the workers came out and threw a bucket of food scraps out and you should have seen the bee-line those monkeys made for the food. Watch out!!! They were fun to watch them play with each other. A few had babies who moved away cautiously but quickly scampered back to mom when something threatened them.
We decided to take the ropeway down and when we saw how far down the mountain it went we were very thankful we did. It was both very steep and VERY long.
Stay tuned...Nara coming up!
The A-Bomb Dome is a grim reminder of the destructive power of the bomb. Peace Park is the home of the many monuments and tributes to the thousands of people who lost their lives. The museum is a terrible reminder of the horrible destruction. There really aren’t words to describe it.
After a somber day in Hiroshima, we took off to the island of Miya jima, and island held in awe for its fabled beauty as well as its famous Tori gate and Itsukushima Shrine. This incredible shrine is built right out upon the water with the foundation posts submerged in the sea. Unfortunately, this means that the posts decay easily and the shrine is battered by the ocean as well as typhoons, requiring constant and comprehensive maintenance. Even the beach and sandbar that emerges at low tide is kept clean and free from even the accumulation of algae.
The shrine has numerous buildings, connected with long, covered walkways. There are also several “stage” areas around, some covered, some out in the open. When we arrived, the monks were busy rolling out a red carpet and setting up one of the outdoor stage areas with another red carpet. We hung out on the fringes and watched, figuring something was about to happen (and no one was telling us to leave, in fact, they set up seats for people and we all sat).
Eventually, a number of priests came out and sat in a cloth draped shelter. Next, some men in elaborate silk robes appeared. Some wore masks, some carried various weapons, and all were dressed in elaborate, embroidered silk robes. The first dance was performed by a single man who wore an elaborate headpiece and carried a ceremonial sword. He very formally moved up to the stage and mounted it, then performed the stylized dance, moving through defensive postures. It was accompanied by music performed by some of the priests in the shelter, using various flute type instruments and a small taiko drum. More dances followed with groups and masks varying by dances. Afterwards we found out that we had had the honor of seeing Bugaku dancing, a performance that is only held nine times a year, generally for religious ceremonies or court occasions.
Afterwards, we decided to hike to the top of Mount Misen. We were armed with a nice, picture map of the area and it looked like it would be a pleasant hike, going past numerous temples, shrines and pagodas, and ending up at the small hut to be located at the top. It was a grueling, 5 km hike up STAIRS to the top. We did pass one beautiful Daishoin Temple grounds that was a great place to take a break but after that we were on our own. We almost gave up (it was starting to rain) but we persevered and were rewarded with a great view of the island and ocean.
We headed down, through some more temples, heading for the ‘monkey house’ and the ropeway. The monkey house turns out to be an open area with many monkeys cavorting around. One of the workers came out and threw a bucket of food scraps out and you should have seen the bee-line those monkeys made for the food. Watch out!!! They were fun to watch them play with each other. A few had babies who moved away cautiously but quickly scampered back to mom when something threatened them.
We decided to take the ropeway down and when we saw how far down the mountain it went we were very thankful we did. It was both very steep and VERY long.
Stay tuned...Nara coming up!
Kyoto in December
We spent our holiday time traveling around Japan. We decided to ride the JR trains - they have a special 5 day pass deal over certain holiday periods. While hotels and such are fairly expensive here, we discovered that off-season travel is much more reasonable.
Kyoto is quite amazing. It’s a large city with a jumbled mixture of buildings and streets – modern skyscrapers, huge department stores, four lane streets, mixed with temples, shrines, fabled gardens and streets no wider than an alleyway. Fortunately, Kyoto has a great system of buses with routes designed to take the tourist to many of the historic sites.
Kinkakuji was our first stop. It is probably Kyoto's most famous temple and garden. The building is three-stories with the traditional oriental style curving roofs. The walls and eaves of the second and third stories are covered with a very fine gold leaf. We didn't make it on a bright sunny day so the reflection on the water isn't quite as spectacular as some of the pictures you see of it. It is, however, awesome. The lower story has an altar that is open for viewing sometimes but unfortunately, we didn't get to see it. The garden winds around the temple and up the hill. While there is a beauty in the stark landscape of winter, we plan to go back in other seasons to see the garden in full bloom.
Next stop, Ryoanji temple, just down the street. This is known as the “Temple of the Sleeping Dragon” and was once a retirement home for one of the emperors. It is also famous for its rock garden, one that is held in the highest esteem as being the quintessential rock garden. People enter (changing shoes for slippers, of course) and sit on a ledge, contemplating the garden. It is a very serene, peaceful scene.
Next stop…the Kyoto Imperial Palace. At one time Kyoto was the capital of Japan and the emperor took up residence in the Imperial Palace. The palace is still used for some of the enthronement ceremonies for the emperor. It is found in the center of the huge Imperial Gardens. There’s a large earthen wall around the outside with six gates for different people seeking admittance, Daimyo (nobles), the Emperor, the Emperess, lesser nobles, and finally the tradesmen, laborers and servants necessary to maintain the smooth running of the place. The main hall is huge and currently contains the thrones for both the emperor and the empress, used during the enthronement ceremony. Although the current Imperial Palace is in Tokyo, most of the emperors are enthroned here in Kyoto. When it occurs in Tokyo, the chairs are packed and shipped to Tokyo and then returned here. The palace grounds also include buildings that sometimes house the 3 treasures of Japan; the sacred mirror, sword and jade.
The small garden outside one of the emperors living quarters is the most spectacular. The water wends its way through carefully cultivated rocks and plants, absolutely gorgeous! It’s another place I would like to return to in the spring.
Stay tuned…Kurashiki coming up!
Kyoto is quite amazing. It’s a large city with a jumbled mixture of buildings and streets – modern skyscrapers, huge department stores, four lane streets, mixed with temples, shrines, fabled gardens and streets no wider than an alleyway. Fortunately, Kyoto has a great system of buses with routes designed to take the tourist to many of the historic sites.
Kinkakuji was our first stop. It is probably Kyoto's most famous temple and garden. The building is three-stories with the traditional oriental style curving roofs. The walls and eaves of the second and third stories are covered with a very fine gold leaf. We didn't make it on a bright sunny day so the reflection on the water isn't quite as spectacular as some of the pictures you see of it. It is, however, awesome. The lower story has an altar that is open for viewing sometimes but unfortunately, we didn't get to see it. The garden winds around the temple and up the hill. While there is a beauty in the stark landscape of winter, we plan to go back in other seasons to see the garden in full bloom.
Next stop, Ryoanji temple, just down the street. This is known as the “Temple of the Sleeping Dragon” and was once a retirement home for one of the emperors. It is also famous for its rock garden, one that is held in the highest esteem as being the quintessential rock garden. People enter (changing shoes for slippers, of course) and sit on a ledge, contemplating the garden. It is a very serene, peaceful scene.
Next stop…the Kyoto Imperial Palace. At one time Kyoto was the capital of Japan and the emperor took up residence in the Imperial Palace. The palace is still used for some of the enthronement ceremonies for the emperor. It is found in the center of the huge Imperial Gardens. There’s a large earthen wall around the outside with six gates for different people seeking admittance, Daimyo (nobles), the Emperor, the Emperess, lesser nobles, and finally the tradesmen, laborers and servants necessary to maintain the smooth running of the place. The main hall is huge and currently contains the thrones for both the emperor and the empress, used during the enthronement ceremony. Although the current Imperial Palace is in Tokyo, most of the emperors are enthroned here in Kyoto. When it occurs in Tokyo, the chairs are packed and shipped to Tokyo and then returned here. The palace grounds also include buildings that sometimes house the 3 treasures of Japan; the sacred mirror, sword and jade.
The small garden outside one of the emperors living quarters is the most spectacular. The water wends its way through carefully cultivated rocks and plants, absolutely gorgeous! It’s another place I would like to return to in the spring.
Stay tuned…Kurashiki coming up!
Kurashiki
Since we were traveling by train, we decided to spend the night in a town half-way between Kyoto and Hiroshima, our next destination. Quite by accident, Jeff chose the little town of Kurashiki, never knowing what we would find there – and a great find it turned out to be.
We exited the train station to be greeted with a large promenade with a great villa behind an ornate wall with the word Tivoli plastered upon it and a huge ferris wheel turning over it all. Well, not being able to ignore such a large invitation, we decided to check it out. It was an amusement park, patterned after the original Tivoli located in Copenhagen and not unlike a small version of the original Disneyland. The light! The entire place was decorated for Christmas with red, green and white lights covering everything. They had rides, large and small, to appeal to all age groups and shops of every kind, including a street designed to emulate Copenhagen. The buildings throughout were spectacular, interspersed with tiny gardens, waterfalls and elaborate fountains. We had a fabulous time, walking around and enjoying everything.
Kurashiki is also the home of the O’Hara art museum. The building looks like an old Greek Temple, strange in the middle of a Japanese city. It is considered to be one of the leading western art museums in Japan. It includes pieces by El Greco, Claude Monet, Picasso, Gougan, Renoir and many more. They also included a large Asian art section and many artifacts. It was located along a famous canal zone with graceful swans floating through the water with weeping willows bending to the water. I bet it’s fabulous in the spring!
Next…on to Hiroshima.
We exited the train station to be greeted with a large promenade with a great villa behind an ornate wall with the word Tivoli plastered upon it and a huge ferris wheel turning over it all. Well, not being able to ignore such a large invitation, we decided to check it out. It was an amusement park, patterned after the original Tivoli located in Copenhagen and not unlike a small version of the original Disneyland. The light! The entire place was decorated for Christmas with red, green and white lights covering everything. They had rides, large and small, to appeal to all age groups and shops of every kind, including a street designed to emulate Copenhagen. The buildings throughout were spectacular, interspersed with tiny gardens, waterfalls and elaborate fountains. We had a fabulous time, walking around and enjoying everything.
Kurashiki is also the home of the O’Hara art museum. The building looks like an old Greek Temple, strange in the middle of a Japanese city. It is considered to be one of the leading western art museums in Japan. It includes pieces by El Greco, Claude Monet, Picasso, Gougan, Renoir and many more. They also included a large Asian art section and many artifacts. It was located along a famous canal zone with graceful swans floating through the water with weeping willows bending to the water. I bet it’s fabulous in the spring!
Next…on to Hiroshima.
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